Yes, I am still here (I haven’t decamped for France again), but I thought you might enjoy a special tomato season treat, a guest post from my friend Deborah Sandler.
Deborah Sandler has enjoyed California’s bounty of fresh local food since arriving here in 1979, and swears never to live anywhere else because the food is so good. She loves to cook and to feed people, and often tells her guests, “Nobody goes hungry at my house!” Deborah is a Farmer’s Market freak, often attending at least two a week, year round, rain or shine, on the lookout for whatever is in season and at its best. Tomatoes are one of her favorite foods, and she shares one of her tomato recipes here. When she isn’t cooking, she sings, and practices family law (while making sure to bring her office-mates lots of fresh food, because nobody goes hungry in her office either).
Tomatoes are finally in season! I yearn for them during the winter, and sometimes am seduced into buying hothouse tomatoes that look lovely but do not have the texture or zing of the real thing. When you bite into a tomato that has been locally grown, recently picked, and never refrigerated, the flavor is huge and unmistakeable. When I was growing up on the East Coast, tomatoes came wrapped in plastic, colored a sickly pink, four to a package, all exactly the same size and shape, firm and tasteless. I lived in the suburbs, and didn’t know anyone who was growing tomatoes, so it was quite rare that I got to taste a real tomato. That changed once I moved to California. Many of the restaurants featured amazing tomatoes in their salads, and friends actually grew some in their yards. I had no idea a tomato could look, smell or taste like this! In recent years, heirloom tomatoes have appeared all over the place, stunning in their profusion of shapes, colors and flavors. Their names are poetic and whimsical – here are just a few examples from one web site that sells seeds for them, and from my local Farmer’s Markets: Arkansas Traveler, Banana Legs, Bloody Butcher (ew!), Cherokee Purple, Black Russian, Dingwall Scotty, Green Zebra (and yes, these have stripes), Halfmoon China, Hank (hey, that’s my dog’s name!), Jersey Devil, Berkeley Tie-Die, Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, Mr. Stripey, Nebraska Wedding, Yellow Pear, and Stump of the World.
I live in Contra Costa County in the San Francisco Bay Area, about 30-45 minutes inland from the ocean and from San Francisco. For those not in California, that means that the climate here is far different from that in San Francisco. Where the City might be 62 degrees and foggy on a summer afternoon, here it may be over 100 degrees and sunny. We get some of the San Francisco fog, but not much. The down side is that our winters are colder, foggier, and danker than those in San Francisco. We are only an hour from the Central Valley, which runs down through the center of the state, and where much of the nation’s produce is grown. Even closer is Brentwood, a major agricultural area just to the east of us, that features plenty of U-Pick farms and orchards, as well as farm stands. Because our local weather is so warm, plenty of people around here grow their own produce, and some even sell at the local Farmer’s Markets. Here is a partial but by no means exhaustive list of Farmer’s Markets within 15-30 minutes of my house: Martinez Sunday morning (I think this is now year-round), Martinez Thursday mornings, Concord Tuesday afternoons (year round), Concord Thursday evenings, Pleasant Hill, Lafayette, Moraga, Danville, Orinda, Walnut Creek Saturdays at The Shadelands and Sundays on Locust Street (more on these below), Martinez at the Contra Costa County Regional Medical Center, Walnut Creek Kaiser, Concord High School, and the list goes on.
My favorites are the Walnut Creek Saturday morning market at The Shadelands, and the Walnut Creek Sunday morning market on Locust Street. Both are very large, with over 40 vendors, and both are year-round. The Saturday market is only a few years old but already bustling with happy patrons. The Sunday market has been there over 20 years, and most of that time I’ve been there. The vendors there have watched my kids grow up, and know me well as one of their regulars. At The Shadelands, my favorite tomato vendor is Swank Farms, which has several tables strewn with all sorts of heirloom tomatoes every week. At the Sunday market, I like Roseland Farms, where the seller has numerous flat boxes of heirlooms sorted by color. He also is one of the very few vendors that sells San Marzano tomatoes, one of the world’s best cooking tomatoes. These last weeks sitting out on the table, cook into very flavorful sauces and soups, or can be sliced into salads as firm yet flavorful dependable little oblong beauties. Roseland Farms also has a big pile of cherry tomatoes of all kinds, and you can grab them by the handful or pick them out one by one. The Shadelands market had a map with push pins, showing the location of each vendor, and how far away their farm is from the market site. The average distance they come is only 89 miles. The average distance food travels to our supermarkets is 1,500 miles. The map had a sign on it reading, “Choose the food less traveled!”
Here is one of my favorite things to do with tomatoes. This is my somewhat famous tomato platter. Amounts are approximate. I made this up, and it doesn’t have official amounts of anything. Mess around with this as much as you want, and change it to your taste. The secret is the freshness of the ingredients. And do not ever refrigerate tomatoes – it destroys their flavor! Slice several heirloom tomatoes (as many colors as possible) onto a large platter in several layers. You can make patterns of color or just do it randomly. Chop up a handful or two of feta cheese and sprinkle that over the tomatoes. Then sprinkle a generous handful or two of olives over that. Lately I use mixed Greek olives from Whole Foods, and I recommend you not use olives from a jar – get fresh ones from an olive bar if you can. If you have fresh heirloom cherry tomatoes in several varieties, sprinkle a handful of those over the top. Then chop up a generous handful or two of fresh basil leaves and sprinkle that over the top and around the platter. The vinaigrette I use is homemade, and is quite tart, so you may want to try it separately before using it here, to adjust for taste if you want. This reverses the usual proportions in a vinaigrette, and has 2 parts vinegar to 1 part oil. 1-1/2 T best quality olive oil, 3 T red or white wine vinegar, 10-15 shakes of salt, 10-15 grinds of fresh ground pepper or 3 or 4 shakes of coarse ground black pepper, 2 or 3 shakes of granulated garlic, 2 or 3 shakes of dried mustard. Mix thoroughly and pour over the tomato platter, serve immediately.